The Return of Flavor and Texture
Europeans and North Americans began to eat
significantly more bread in the 1980s than
they had the decade before. One reason was
the revival of traditional bread making. Small
bakeries began to produce bread using less
refined grains and grain mixtures, building
flavor with long, slow fermentation, and
baking small batches in brick ovens that
produce a dark, crusty loaf. Another reason
was the home cook’s rediscovery of the
pleasures of baking and eating fresh warm
bread. The Japanese invention of the bread
machine made it possible for busy home
cooks to put all the ingredients into a single
chamber, close the lid, and fill the house with
the forgotten aroma of fresh-baked bread.
Breads baked by home cooks and artisans
account for a small fraction of the overall
bread production in England and North
America. But their revival demonstrates that
people still enjoy the flavors and textures of
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