On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

firmness but also readily leak whey; slow
gelling produces a finer, more delicate, more
intricately branched network whose individual
strands are weaker but whose smaller pores
are better at retaining the whey.


Frozen Yogurt Frozen yogurt became popular
in the 1970s and ’80s as a low-fat, “healthy”
alternative to ice cream. In fact, frozen yogurt
is essentially ice milk whose mix includes a
small dose of yogurt; the standard proportion
is 4 to 1. Depending on the mixing procedure,
the yogurt bacteria may survive in large
numbers or be largely eliminated.


Soured Creams and Buttermilk, Including Crème Fraîche


Before the advent of the centrifugal separator,
butter was made in western Europe by
allowing raw milk to stand overnight or
longer, skimming off the cream that rose to
the top, and churning the cream. During the

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