On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

Chemical leavenings can have adverse
effects on both flavor and color. Some
leavening acids have a distinctly astringent
taste (sulfates, pyrophosphates). When acid
and base are properly matched, neither is left
behind in excess. But when too much soda is
added, or when the batter is poorly mixed and
not all the powder dissolves, a bitter, soapy, or
“chemical” flavor results. Colors are also
affected in even slightly alkaline conditions:
browning reactions are enhanced, chocolate
turns reddish, and blueberries turn green.


Breads


There are four basic steps in the making of
yeast bread. We mix together the flour, water,
yeast, and salt; we knead the mixture to
develop the gluten network; we give the yeast
time to produce carbon dioxide and fill the
dough with gas cells; and we bake the dough
to set its structure and generate flavor. In

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