wheats, require a long kneading period to
develop their strong gluten, and produce well-
raised loaves with a distinctive, slightly eggy
flavor and chewy texture. Lower-protein “all-
purpose” flours give breads with a lower
maximum volume, more neutral flavor, and
less chewy texture, while flours from soft
wheats with weak gluten proteins make denser
loaves with a tender, cake-like crumb. The
more of the outer aleurone, bran, and germ
that makes it into the flour, the darker and
denser the bread and the stronger the whole-
grain flavor. The baker can mix different
flours to obtain a particular character. Many
artisan breadmakers prefer flours with a
moderate protein content, 11–12%, and an
extraction rate somewhere between standard
white and whole wheat flours.
Water The chemical composition of the water
used to make the dough influences the
dough’s qualities. Distinctly acid water