On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

to-end bonds of the gluten molecules, and so
an initial shortening of the gluten chains. As
oxygen from the air and oxidizing compounds
from the yeasts enter the dough, the breaking
and blocking stop, and the gluten molecules
begin to bond end-to-end and form long
chains.
Mixing can be done by hand, in a stand
mixer, or in a food processor. The processor
works in less than a minute, a fraction of the
time required for hand or mixer kneading, and
therefore offers the advantage of minimizing
exposure to air and oxygen, an excess of
which bleaches the remaining wheat pigments
and alters flavor. The high energy input heats
the dough, which should be allowed to cool
before fermentation.


Two-Stage   Mixing: Autolysis
An alternative to mixing all the dough
ingredients at once is the autolyse or
“autolysis” method championed by a
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