On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

“little bracelet,” so both are named for
their shape. Brioche is French, its root
apparently broyer, meaning to grind or
knead. It first appears in the 15th century
to name breads enriched with butter but not
yet with eggs. Panettone and pandoro are
19th-century Italian coinages meaning
“grand bread” and “golden bread.”
The distinctive, complex flavor of rye
bread comes largely from the grain itself,
which has mushroom, potato, and green notes
(from octenone, methional, nonenal). The
traditional sourdough fermentation adds
malty, vanilla, fried, buttery, sweaty, and
vinegar notes.


Sweet and Rich Breads: Brioche, Panettone,
Pandoro Bread doughs that contain
substantial amounts of fat and/or sugar pose
special challenges to the baker. Both fat and
sugar slow gluten development and weaken it,
sugar because it binds up water molecules and

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