On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

zucchini, whose moistness readily blends into
the moistness of the crumb. Potatoes and
bananas can be mashed to become part of the
batter itself.
Muffin batters generally contain less
sugar, eggs, and fat than quickbreads. The
ingredients are mixed together just enough to
dampen the solids, and the mix baked in small
portions rather than a large loaf. Well-made
muffins have an even, open, tender interior.
They stale quickly because the small
proportion of fat is dispersed unevenly by the
minimal mixing and can’t protect much of the
starch. Overmixing produces a less tender,
finer interior with occasional coarse tunnels,
which develop when the overly elastic batter
traps the leavening gas in large pockets.


Green Blueberries and Blue Walnuts
Sometimes the solid ingredients folded into
bread and muffin batters turn disconcerting
colors: blueberries, carrots, and sunflower

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