On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

little or no flavor. This is because the fat must
have the necessary consistency for producing
the desired texture. Broadly speaking, any fat
or oil can be worked finely into flour to make
crumbly pastry, while flaky and laminated
pastries require fats that are solid but
malleable at cool room temperature: namely
butter, lard, or vegetable shortening. Of these,
shortenings are the easiest to work with, and
produce the best textures.


Fat Consistency: Butter and Lard Are
Demanding At any given temperature, solid
fats have different consistencies that depend
on what fraction of their molecules is in solid
crystals, and what fraction is liquid. Above
about 25% solids, fat is too hard and brittle to
roll into an even layer. Below about 15%
solids, fat is too soft to work; it sticks to the
dough, doesn’t hold its shape, and leaks liquid
oil. The ideal fat for flaky and laminated
pastries is therefore one that has between 15

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