15–25% solids over a temperature range triple
that of butter, from 53 to 85ºF/12–30ºC. It’s
therefore much easier to make flaky pastry
with shortening than with butter. Because
laminated pastries and breads are especially
tricky to make, professionals and
manufacturers often use shortenings that have
been formulated specifically for their
production. Danish margarines are workable
up to 95ºF/35ºC, and puff-pastry margarines
to 115ºF /46ºC: they don’t melt until well into
the baking process! However, high melting
points have an important drawback: they
mean that the fat remains solid at mouth
temperature. Where butter and lard melt in the
mouth and release luscious flavor,
manufactured pastry shortenings can leave a
pasty or waxy residue in the mouth, and have
no true flavor of their own (they’re often
flavored with milk solids).
Food Words: Pastry, Pasta, Pâté, Pie