On Food and Cooking

absorb moisture and provide gluten to hold it
together into a formable dough. Eggs are
sometimes added to provide additional
binding and yolky richness, though they also
add a springy quality. Old potatoes, and mealy
rather than waxy varieties, are preferred for
their lower water and higher starch contents,
which means that less flour is needed to make
the dough, so less gluten forms and the
dumpling is more tender. The potatoes are
cooked, peeled, and riced immediately to
allow as much moisture as possible to
evaporate; then cooled or even chilled, and
kneaded into a dough with just as much flour
as necessary, usually less than 1 cup/120 gm
per lb/500 gm potatoes. The dough is formed
into a thin rope and cut into small pieces, the
pieces shaped, and then boiled in water until
they rise to the top of the pot. Gnocchi can
also be made by replacing the potato with
other starchy vegetables or with ricotta
cheese.