tradition, which is accomplished in its own
way. Disinclined to the labor and expense of
long-simmered stocks and sauces, middle-
class home cooks refined other methods: for
example, making a broth from the trimmings
of a roast, using the broth to dissolve the
flavorful crust from the roasting pan, and
boiling this relatively small amount of liquid
to reduce and thicken it, or binding it with
cream or flour.
Sauces in Italy and England
Purees and Meat Juices From the Middle
Ages through the 16th century, Italian court
cooking was as innovative as French cooking,
and sometimes more so. Yet it stagnated in
the 17th century, according to historian
Claudio Benporat, as part of a general
political and cultural decline caused by an
absence of strong Italian leaders and the
influence of other European powers on the