On Food and Cooking

gives several French sauce recipes that require
more meat than the meal they will
accompany, and then remarks on “the Folly of
these fine French Cooks” in running up such
huge expenses for so little. Glasse’s principal
sauce is “gravy,” made by browning some
meat, carrots, onions, several herbs and
spices, shaking in some flour, adding water,
and stewing. In the 19th century, similarly
homely anchovy, oyster, parsley, egg, caper,
and butter sauces were popular.
And the Worcestershire sauces and
chutneys and ketchups that Denti di Pirajno
mocked? These condiments had become a part
of English cooking in the 17th century thanks
to the commercial activities of the East India
Company, which brought back Asian soy and
fish sauces — including Indonesian kecap (p.
499) — and pickled fruits and vegetables, all
preserved foods with intensified flavors.
Many of these preparations are rich in savory
amino acids, and the English imitations were