On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

another sensation (viscosity) for the brain to
attend to. Then this reduced saltiness reduces
the apparent aroma intensity — despite the
fact that the same number of aroma molecules
are flowing out of the sauce and across the
smell receptors in our nose. The practical
significance of this finding is that thickening
a sauce with flour or starch diminishes its
overall flavor, and that both taste and aroma
can be restored to some extent by the simple
addition of more salt.


Sauces Thickened
with Gelatin and
Other Proteins


If we gently heat a piece of meat or fish alone
in a pan, it releases flavorful juices. Normally
we make the pan hot enough to evaporate the
water the moment it comes out, so that the
flavor molecules become concentrated on the
meat and pan surfaces, and react with each

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