the water molecules they surround can no
longer flow freely: so the liquid turns into a
solid. A 1% gelatin gel is fragile and quivery
and breaks easily when handled; the more
familiar and robust dessert jellies made with
commercial gelatin are usually 3% gelatin or
more. The higher the proportion of gelatin, the
more firm and rubbery the gel is.
Jellies are remarkable in two ways. At
their best they are translucent, glistening,
beautiful on their own or as settings for the
foods embedded in them. And the temperature
at which the gelatin junctions are shaken apart
is right around body temperature: so gelatin
gels melt effortlessly in the mouth to a full-
bodied fluid. They bathe the mouth in sauce.
No other thickener has this quality.
Protein-Thickened Sauces and Health
Sauces thickened with proteins are very
nutritious, and microbes can multiply
rapidly in them. They’re best held either