On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

provide enough gelatin — or from a double
fish stock. The stocks are clarified with egg
whites and chopped meat or fish, then filled
and flavored just before they set. Aspics
should be firm enough to be cut as necessary,
but quivery and tender in the mouth, not
rubbery. When made to coat a terrine or whole
portion of meat, or to bind chopped meat
together, they must be firmer, around 10–15%
gelatin, so that they don’t run off the food or
crumble. Fish jellies and aspics are especially
delicate due to the low melting temperature of
fish gelatin; they and their plates should be
kept distinctly cold to prevent premature
melting. A homely version of the meat aspic
is boeuf à la mode, a pot roast braised in stock
and wine along with a veal foot, then sliced
and embedded in the strained jelly made by
the cooking liquid. Chauds-froids are meat or
fish jellies that include cream.


Food    Words:  Gel,    Gelatin,    Jelly
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