On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

however, generally remain loyal to flour.
Because they’re made at the last minute,
gravies are not cooked long enough to cause
the disintegration of the starch granules, and
therefore generally have a slightly coarse
texture, even when lump-free. This gives
gravies a character very different from that of
the suave sauce: hearty, and when they are
extremely thick, almost bready. The cook can
obtain a smoother consistency by making an
initial preparation from the flour and a
fraction of the deglazing liquid, heating the
mixture until the starch granules gelate and
crowd up against each other to form a thick
paste, and whisking the paste vigorously to
smash the granules into each other and break
them up into finer pieces. This paste is then
mixed with the rest of the deglazing liquid
and simmered until it’s evenly dispersed and
the liquid reaches the desired consistency.


Sauces Thickened with
Plant Particles: Purees

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