consistency of the butterfat itself, which
thanks to its long fat molecules is naturally
more slow-flowing and viscous than water. So
melted butter, whole or clarified (“drawn”) to
remove the water phase, makes a simple and
delicious sauce. Cooks also heat whole butter
until the water boils off and the milk solids
turn brown, which gives the fat a nutty aroma.
The French beurre noisette and beurre noir, or
“hazelnut” and “black” butters, are such
browned butters, often made into a temporary
emulsion with lemon juice and vinegar
respectively.
Compound and Whipped Butters There are
other ways to take advantage of butter’s
semisolid consistency and background
richness. One is to make a “compound butter”
by incorporating pounded herbs, spices,
shellfish eggs or livers, or other ingredients;
another is to whip softened butter with a
flavorful liquid into a combined emulsion and