fats and oils other than butter, and to flavor
the water phase with meat reductions or
vegetable purees.
Alternative Oil Emulsions
These days we think of mayonnaise
exclusively as an egg-emulsified sauce, but
this hasn’t always been the case, and there
are a number of other ways to form and
stabilize a flavorful oil emulsion. In 1828,
perhaps a few decades after the supposed
invention of mayonnaise, the great chef
and sauce-systematizer Antonin Carême
gave three recipes for magnonnaise
blanche, only one of which includes egg
yolks. The others are made with a ladleful
of starchy velouté or béchamel sauce, and
with a gelatinous reduced extract of veal
meat and bones. In these versions, gelatin
and milk proteins (in the béchamel) are
emulsifiers, and starch is a stabilizer.
Some versions of the herb-flavored Italian