On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

history of Africa and the Americas, whose
peoples were enslaved to satisfy the European
hunger for it. And today, by displacing more
nourishing foods from our diet, sugar
contributes indirectly to several modern
diseases of affluence. Like most good things
in life, it’s best enjoyed in moderation. And
like that other good thing, fat, it’s easy to
consume a lot of sugar in manufactured foods
without realizing it.
Chocolate, the cooked, sculptable paste of
a South American tree seed, has been married
to sugar ever since its arrival in Europe nearly
500 years ago, and is in some respects sugar’s
complement. Where sugar is a single
molecule purified from complex plant fluids,
chocolate is a mixture of hundreds of different
molecules produced by fermenting and
roasting a plain bland seed. It’s one of the
most complex flavors we experience, and yet
it lacks and is completed by basic, simple
sweetness.

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