In the last stage, ripening, a host of enzymes
work together to create the unique texture and
flavor of each cheese. These are mainly
protein- and fat-digesting enzymes, and they
come from the milk, from bacteria originally
present in the milk, the acidifying bacteria,
the rennet, and any bacteria or molds enlisted
especially for the ripening process.
Cheese is certainly an expression of the
milk, enzymes, and microbes that are its
major ingredients. But it is also — perhaps
above all — an expression of the skill and
care of the cheesemaker, who chooses the
ingredients and orchestrates their many
chemical and physical transformations. Here
is a brief summary of the cheesemaker’s
work.
Curdling With the exception of some fresh
cheeses, the cheesemaker curdles nearly all
cheeses with a combination of starter bacteria
acid and rennet. Acid and rennet form very