On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

but it’s likely to look dull and mottled, and to
be soft instead of snappy. This is because the
chocolate cooled down so quickly that its
cocoa fat solidified into a loose, weak network
of unstable crystals instead of the dense, hard
network of stable crystals. If appearance and
consistency matter, as they do to professional
cooks and confectioners, then the cook must
temper the melted chocolate, or prime it with
desirable stable crystals of cocoa fat, just as
the manufacturer did before forming it into
bars.


The structure of ganache. Left: Soft ganache
is made with an equal proportion of chocolate
and cream, with cocoa particles and droplets
of cocoa and milk fat surrounded by a syrup of

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