On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

curved blade of the knife used to harvest
grape bunches, or to the shape of the bunch
stem. Grapple and crumpet are related
words.
New Wines and New Containers Early
modern times brought the invention of several
wonderful variants on plain fermented grape
juice, and important improvements in wine
storage. Sometime before 1600, Spanish
winemakers found that they could both
stabilize and give a new character to wines by
fortifying them with brandy; the result was
sherry. Around 1650, Hungarian winemakers
managed to make deliciously concentrated
and very sweet Tokaji wine from grapes
infected by an otherwise destructive fungus,
which came to be known as the “noble rot.”
This was the forerunner of French Sauternes
and similar sweet German wines. At about the
same time, English importers of white wine
from the Champagne region east of Paris
discovered that they could make the wine

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