On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

digestion to a minimum and malts for a
shorter time; for a darker malt that will
benefit from more sugars for the browning
reactions, he malts for a longer time, and may
finish by holding the moist barley at 140–
180ºF/60–80ºC to maximize the action of the
starch-digesting, sugar-producing enzymes.


Kilning Once the barley reaches the desired
balance of enzymes and sugars, the maltster
fixes that balance by drying and heating it in a
kiln. The dehydration and heat kill the
embryo, and they also generate color and
flavor. To make malts with high enzyme
activities, the maltster dries the barley gently,
over about 24 hours, and brings the
temperature slowly up to around 180ºF/80ºC.
Such a malt is pale, and makes a light-
colored, light-flavored brew. To make malts
that have little enzyme activity but are rich in
color and flavor, he kilns the barley at a high
temperature, 300–360ºF/150–180ºC, to

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