On Food and Cooking

Traditional balsamic vinegar is applied by
the drop to a variety of dishes, from salads
and grilled meats and fish to fruits and
cheese. Mass-produced versions are added
in larger quantities to lend depth of flavor
to soups and stews, and to make mellower
vinaigrette dressings than plain wine
vinegar does.
Making Traditional Balsamic Vinegar
Traditional balsamic vinegar begins with wine
grapes: white Trebbiano, red Lambrusco, and
a number of other varieties are used. Their
juice is boiled until the volume is reduced by
about a third. Boiling removes enough water
to concentrate the juice to around 40%
dissolved sugars and acids, and begins the
sequence of browning reactions between
sugars and proteins that generate both rich
flavor and color (p. 778). The juice is then
placed in the first of a sequence of
progressively smaller barrels, often made
from a variety of woods (oak, chestnut,