yolk well centered and not discolored; its
flavor delicate, not sulfurous. Good texture
and flavor are obtained by taking care not to
overcook the eggs, which overcoagulates their
proteins and generates too much hydrogen
sulfide. Any method that keeps the cooking
temperature well below the boil will help
avoid overcooking, as will plunging the
cooked eggs into ice water. Gentle cooking
also takes care of most shell and yolk
problems — but not all.
Easily Cracked and Not So Easily Peeled
Shells A shell that cracks during hard cooking
makes a mess and a sulfurous stink, while a
shell that doesn’t peel away cleanly makes an
ugly, pockmarked egg. A traditional
preventative measure for both problems is to
poke a pinhole in the wide end of the shell,
but studies have found that this doesn’t make
much difference. The best way to avoid
cracking is to heat fresh eggs gently, without