On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

crème, crèmes brûlées, and cheesecakes.
Creams, by contrast, are auxiliary
preparations, made from essentially the same
mix as custards but stirred continuously
during stovetop cooking to produce a
thickened but malleable, even pourable mass.
Pastry cooks in particular use crème anglaise
(so-called “custard cream”), pastry cream
(crème pâtissière), and their relatives to coat
or fill or underlie a great variety of baked
sweets.


Classically Smooth  Scrambled   Eggs
Oeufs brouillés au jus (Scrambled Eggs
with Meat Demiglace)
Break a dozen fresh eggs into a dish, beat
them thoroughly, pass them through a
strainer into a casserole dish, add six
ounces of Isigny butter cut into small
pieces, season with salt, white pepper, and
grated nutmeg; place on a moderate stove
and whip gently with a little egg-white
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