On Food and Cooking

culprits are juices that leak out of the plant
tissue, and fibrous particles, which cause local
overcoagulation of egg proteins. The juice
leakage can be reduced by precooking the
fruit or vegetable, and including some flour in
the mix to help bind excess liquid and
minimize overcoagulation. These dishes are
best cooked very gently and only until barely
done.
Cooking Cooks have known for thousands of
years that a low cooking temperature provides
the greatest safety margin for making
custards: that is, it gives us more time to
recognize that the dish is properly done and
remove it from the heat, before it toughens
and tunnels. Custards are usually baked in a
moderate oven with the protection of a water
bath, which keeps the effective cooking
temperature below the boiling point. The
actual temperature depends on the pan
material and whether and how the water bath
is covered (see box). It’s a mistake to cover