incorporates more air bubbles that will fill
with steam and expand during baking. Second,
bake the cheesecake slowly in a low oven.
This will allow trapped air and steam to
disperse gradually and evenly. Third, don’t
overbake. This will dry the filling and cause it
to shrink from moisture loss. Finally, cool the
cheesecake gradually in the open oven.
Cooling causes any trapped air or steam to
contract, and the more gradually this happens,
the more gently the cheesecake surface is
pulled in.
Cream Theory and Practice
Creams are easier to make than custards in
two respects. They’re heated on the stovetop,
so the cook doesn’t have to consider the fine
points of heat transfer in the oven. And
because they’re not served as is, in the
container they’re cooked in, some curdling
can be tolerated and remedied by putting the