On Food and Cooking

it in a crust, and bake it, and serve it forth.
— from a manuscript published in
Antiquitates Culinariae, 1791 (ca. 1400)
Crème Anglaise and Other Pourable
Creams The mix for a stirred cream is made
much as baked-custard mixes are. An
especially rich cream may call for yolks only,
as many as 4 or 5 per cup/250 ml milk. The
eggs and sugar are mixed with scalded milk or
cream, and the mixture is then stirred
constantly on the stovetop until it thickens
enough to cling to the spoon, at around
180ºF/80ºC. The gentle heat of a double boiler
minimizes the possibility of curdling, but it
takes longer than direct heat. The thickened
cream is then strained of any coagulated egg
or other solid particles, and cooled, with
occasional stirring to prevent the proteins
from setting into a solid gel. An ice bath will
cool the cream quickly, but demands more
frequent stirring to maintain an even texture.
Fruit purees are generally added after the