On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

determined by probing the interior with a
toothpick, and is a matter of taste; some
people like a creamy interior that still clings
to the toothpick, others prefer a more fully
cooked consistency, which clings to itself and
leaves the toothpick clean.


Yolk Foams:
Zabaglione and Sabayons


Yolks Can’t Foam Without Help Beat an
egg white for two minutes and it will expand
eightfold into a semisolid foam. Beat an egg
yolk for ten minutes and you’ll be lucky to
double its volume. Yolks are richer in protein
than whites, and have the added advantage of
emulsifying phospholipids that do a fine job
of coating fat droplets: so why can’t they
stabilize air bubbles and make a decent foam?
One clue is what happens when you wash
out your yolky bowl: the moment you pour in
some water, it foams! It turns out that the

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