root meaning “mixed,” “confused” — was an
Italian yolk-thickened spiced wine in the 15th
century, and by 1800 was sometimes foamy
and sometimes not. (Even some modern
zabaglione recipes are not whipped but
stirred, and come out more like a winey crème
anglaise.) The French discovered zabaglione
around 1800, and by 1850 had incorporated it
into their system of sauces as a dessert cream
with the more refined-sounding name
sabayon. In the 20th century they extended the
principle to savory cooking broths and stocks,
and to lighten classical yolk-based butter and
oil sauces, including hollandaise and
mayonnaise. (For the sauces, see p. 639.)
Zabaglione Technique The standard method
for making zabaglione is to mix equal
volumes of sugar and yolks, add the wine —
usually Marsala, and anywhere from the same
to four times the volume of yolks — set the
bowl above a pan of simmering water, and