On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

fed geese and ducks. It has been made and
appreciated since Roman times and probably
long before; the force-feeding of geese is
clearly represented in Egyptian art from 2500
BCE. It’s a kind of living pâté, ingeniously
prepared in the growing bird before it’s
slaughtered. Constant overnourishment causes
the normally small, lean, red organ to grow to
10 times its normal size and reach a fat
content of 50 to 65%. The fat is dispersed in
insensibly fine droplets within the liver cells,
and creates an incomparably integrated,
delicate blend of smoothness, richness, and
savoriness.


Preparing Foie Gras A good-quality liver is
recognized by its unblemished appearance,
pale thanks to the minute fat droplets, and by
its consistency. The liver tissue itself is firm
but pliable (like chicken liver), while the fat is
only semisolid at cool room temperature.
When cool and pressed with the finger, a good

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