pork pieces are tumbled with salt to draw out
the muscle protein myosin, which forms a
sticky layer that holds the pieces together.
Most corned beef is now injected with brine
as well; the briskets never touch any actual
salt grains.
Modern ham and bacon contain more
moisture than the dry-cured versions
(sometimes more than the original raw meat!)
and about half the salt — 3–4% instead of 5–
7%. Where slices of traditional ham and
bacon fry easily and retain 75% of their
weight, the wetter modern versions spatter,
shrink, and curl as they give up their water,
and retain only a third of their initial weight.
Smoked Meats
Smoke from burning plant materials, usually
wood, has helped to preserve food ever since
our ancestors mastered fire. Smoke’s
usefulness results from its chemical