On Food and Cooking

reaches 1%, the pH 4.5–5. High-temperature
fermentation tends to produce volatile acids
(acetic, butanoic) with a sharp aroma, while
low-temperature fermentation produces a
more complex blend of nutty aldehydes and
fruity esters (the traditional salami flavor).
The sausage may then be cooked and/or
smoked, and finally is dried for two to three
weeks to the desired final moisture content. A
powdery white coat of harmless molds and
yeasts (species of Penicillium, Candida,
Debaromyces) may develop on the casing
during drying; these microbes contribute to
flavor and prevent the growth of spoilage
microbes.
Fermented sausages develop a dense,
chewy texture thanks to the salt extraction of
the meat proteins, their denaturation by the
bacterial acids, and to the general drying of
the meat mass. Their tangy, aromatic flavor
comes from the bacterial acids and volatile
molecules, and from fragments of protein and