On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

maize production made it economical to
force-feed fowl and generate the necessary
fat. In the age of canning and refrigeration,
confits are still made as a convenient, long-
keeping ingredient that lends its distinctive
flavor to salads, stews, and soups.
The traditional French confit is made by
salting pieces of meat for a day, sometimes
along with herbs and spices, then drying them,
immersing them in fat, and heating very
gradually and gently for several hours. The
meat, often still pink or red inside (p. 149), is
then drained, placed in a sterilized container
over an additional sprinkling of salt, the fat
skimmed from any spoilage-prone meat
juices, reheated, and then poured over the
meat. Sealed and stored in a cool place, the
confit keeps for several months, and can be
reheated periodically to extend its useful life.
The small but real risk that botulism
bacteria could grow in this low-oxygen
environment is reduced by the second dose of

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