On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

Fisheries
and Aquaculture


Of all our foods, fish and shellfish are the
only ones that we still harvest in significant
quantities from the wild. The history of the
world’s fisheries is the saga of human
ingenuity, bravery, hunger, and wastefulness
evolving into a maw that now swallows much
of the oceans’ tremendous productivity. In
1883, the eminent biologist T. H. Huxley
expressed his belief that “the cod fishery, the
herring fishery, the pilchard fishery, the
mackerel fishery, and probably all the great
sea fisheries are inexhaustible; that is to say
that nothing we do seriously affects the
numbers of fish.” Just over a century later,
cod and herring stocks on both sides of the
North Atlantic have collapsed, many other
fish are in decline, and the U.N. Food and
Agriculture Organization estimates that we
are harvesting two-thirds of the major

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