Salty Poke and Lomi
To the world’s repertoire of raw fish dishes,
the Hawaiian islands have contributed poke
(“slice,” “cut”) and lomi (“rub,” “press,”
“squeeze”). These are small pieces of tuna,
marlin, and other fish, coated with salt for
varying periods (until the fish stiffens, if it’s
to be kept for some time), and mixed with
other flavorful ingredients, traditionally
seaweed and roasted candlenuts. Lomi is
unusual in that the piece of fish is first worked
between the thumb and fingers before salting,
to break some of the muscle sheets and fibers
apart from each other and soften the texture.
Cooking Fish and Shellfish
The muscle tissues of fish and shellfish react
to heat much as beef and pork do, becoming
opaque, firm, and more flavorful. However,
fish and shellfish are distinctive in a few