minimize fishy odors. Start with very fresh
fish and wash it well to remove oxidized fats
and bacteria-generated amines from the
surface. Enclose the fish in a covered pan, or
pastry crust, or parchment or foil envelope, or
poaching liquid, to reduce the exposure of its
surface to the air; frying, broiling, and baking
all propel fishy vapors into the kitchen. And
let the fish cool down to some extent before
removing it from its enclosure; this will
reduce the volatility of the vapors that do
escape.
Heat and Fish Texture The real challenge in
cooking both fish and meat is to get the
texture right. And the key to fish and meat
texture is the transformation of muscle
proteins (p. 149). The cook’s challenge is to
control the process of coagulation so that it
doesn’t proceed too far, to the point that the
muscle fibers become hard and the juice flow
dries up completely.