On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

brief high-temperature treatment to
brown and/or sterilize the surfaces.
Compensate for uneven thickness by
cutting slashes in the thick areas every 1–
2 cm. This effectively divides the thick
areas into smaller portions and allows
heat to penetrate more rapidly. Another
strategy for relatively large portions is to
cover thin areas loosely with aluminum
foil, which blocks radiant heat and slows
their cooking.
Check the fish early and often for
doneness. Simple formulas — 10
minutes to the inch is a popular one —
and past experience can get you in the
vicinity of the correct time, but there’s
no substitute for checking the particular
piece. This can be done by measuring the
internal temperature with a reliable
thermometer, peering into a small
incision to see whether the interior is still
translucent or already opaque, pulling on

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