On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

Fish are also poached in a variety of other
liquids, including oil, butter, and such
emulsions as beurre blanc and beurre monté
(p. 632). These offer the advantage of slower,
more gentle heat conduction and a more stable
temperature thanks to reduced evaporative
cooling.


Fish    Aspics
Ordinary fish consommés are seldom
concentrated enough in gelatin to set into
the firm, stable gel of an aspic (p. 607). For
giving a glossy, aspic-like coating to a cold
fish preparation, cooks may supplement
their simple consommé with a small
amount of commercial gelatin, or cook a
second batch of fish in the consommé. Fish
gelatin melts at a lower temperature than
pig and beef gelatin — around 77ºF/25ºC,
instead of 86ºF/30ºC — so a true fish aspic
melts more readily in the mouth, seems
more delicate, and releases its flavor
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