On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

Japanese narezushi, the original form of
modern sushi (p. 207). The best-known
version is funa-zushi, made with rice and
goldfish carp (Carassius auratus) from Lake
Biwa, north of Kyoto. Various bacteria
consume the rice carbohydrates and produce a
range of organic acids that protect against
spoilage, soften the head and backbone, and
contribute to the characteristic tart and rich
flavor, which has vinegary, buttery, and
cheesy notes. In modern sushi, made with
pristinely fresh raw fish, the tartness of
narezushi survives through the addition of
vinegar to the rice.


Scandinavian Buried Fish: Gravlax
According to food ethnologist Astri
Riddervold, Scandinavian fermented fishes —
the original gravlax, Swedish surlax and
sursild, Norwegian rakefisk and rakørret —
were probably the result of a simple dilemma
facing medieval fisherman at remote rivers,

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