Thailand - Planning (Chapter)

BANGKOK

of Wat Bowonniwet for several years. King

Bhumibol (Rama IX) and Crown Prince Va-

jiralongkorn, as well as several other males

in the royal family, have been temporarily

ordained as monks. The ubosot has some

interesting wall murals (see the boxed text,

below). Because of the temple’s royal status,

visitors should be particularly careful to

dress properly for admittance to this wát –

no shorts or sleeveless shirts.

Wat Ratchanatdaram

Worawihan BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(วัดราชนดดารามวรวั ิหาร; Map p 60 ; cnr Th Ratch-

adamnoen Klang & Th Mahachai; admission free;

h9am-5pm; bus 2, 15, 44, 511, klorng taxi Tha Phan

Fah) Across Th Mahachai from Wat Saket,

Wat Ratchanatdaram dates from the mid-

19th century and in addition to Loha Pra-

sat, the metallic, castlelike monastery, is

home to a well-known market selling Bud-

dhist prá pim (magical charm amulets) in

all sizes, shapes and styles. The amulets not

only feature images of the Buddha, but also

famous Thai monks and Indian deities. Bud-

dha images are also for sale.

Ban Baht (Monk’s Bowl

Village) NEIGHBOURHOOD

(บ้านบาตร; Map p 60 ; Soi Ban Baht; h10am-6pm;

bus 8, 37, 47, klorng taxi Tha Phan Fah) Just when

you start to lament the adverse eff ects of

tourism, pay a visit to this handicraft vil-

lage. This is the only surviving village estab-

lished by Rama I to make the bàht (rounded

bowls) that the monks carry to receive food

alms from faithful Buddhists every morning.

Today the average monk relies on a bowl

mass-produced in China, but the traditional

technique survives in Ban Baht thanks to pa-

tronage by tourists.

About half a dozen families still ham-

mer the bowls together from eight separate

pieces of steel representing, they say, the

eight spokes of the Wheel of Dharma (which

symbolise Buddhism’s Eightfold Path). The

TEMPLE MURALS

Because of the relative wealth of Bangkok, as well as its role as the country’s artistic and

cultural centre, the artists commissioned to paint the walls of the city’s various temples

were among the most talented around, and Bangkok’s temple paintings are regarded as

the fi nest in Thailand. Some particularly exceptional works:

» Wat Bowonniwet (see p 73 ) Painted by an artist called In Kong during the reign of

Rama II, the murals in the panels of the ubosot (chapel) of this temple include Thai

depictions of Western life (possibly copied from magazine illustrations) during the

early 19th century.

» (^) Wat Chong Nonsi (วดชั ่องนนทรี; Map p 56 ; Th Nonsi, off Th Phra Ram III; admission free;
h8am-6pm; MRT Khlong Toei & access by taxi) Dating back to the late Ayuthaya period,
Bangkok’s earliest surviving temple paintings are faded and missing in parts, but the
depictions of everyday Thai life, including bawdy illustrations of a sexual manner, are
well worth visiting.
» (^) Buddhaisawan (Phutthaisawan) Chapel (p 63 ) Although construction of this
temple, located in the National Museum, began in 1795, the paintings were probably
finished during the reign of Rama III (1824–51). Among other scenes, the graceful mu-
rals depict the conception, birth and early life of the Buddha – common topics among
Thai temple murals.
» (^) Wat Suthat (p 73 ) Almost as impressive in their vast scale as for their quality, the
murals at Wat Suthat are among the most awe-inspiring in the country. Gory depic-
tions of Buddhist hell can be found on a pillar directly behind the Buddha statue.
» (^) Wat Suwannaram (วัดสุวรรณาราม; Map p 56 ; 33 Soi 32, Th Charoen Sanitwong, Khlong
Bangkok Noi; admission free; h8am-6pm; klorng taxi from Tha Chang) These paintings
inside a late Ayuthaya–era temple in Thonburi contain skilled and vivid depictions of
battle scenes and foreigners, including Chinese and Muslim warriors.
» (^) Wat Tritosathep (วัดตรีทศเทพ; Map p 60 ; Th Prachathipatai; admission free; bus 12, 19, 56)
Although still a work in progress, Chakrabhand Posayakrit’s postmodern murals at this
temple in Banglamphu have already been recognised as masterworks of Thai Buddhist
art.