BANGKOK
BANGKOKSIGHTSBANGKOKSIGHTSchitecture, royal or sacred, can be classifi ed
as Ratanakosin (or old-Bangkok style).
Housed in a fantastically decorated bòht
(ch apel) and guarded by pairs of yaksha
(mythical giants), the Emerald Buddha is
the temple’s primary attraction. It sits atop
an elevated altar, barely visible amid the
gilded decorations. The diminutive fi gure
is always cloaked in royal robes, one for
each season (hot, cool and rainy). In a sol-
emn ceremony, the king (or in recent years,
the crown prince) changes the garments at
the beginning of each season. Recently re-
stored Buddhist murals line the interior
walls of the bòht, and the murals of the
Ramakian (the Thai version of the Indian
epic the Ramayana) line the inside walls of
the temple compound. Originally painted
during the reign of Rama I (1782–1809) and
also recently restored, the murals illustrate
the epic in its entirety, beginning at the
north gate and moving clockwise around
the compound.
Except for an anteroom here and there,
the buildings of the Grand Palace (Phra
Borom Maharatchawong) are now put to
use by the king only for certain ceremonial
occasions, such as Coronation Day.
Borombhiman Hall (eastern end), a
French-inspired structure that served as a
residence for Rama VI, is occasionally used
to house visiting foreign dignitaries. The
building to the west is Amarindra Hall,
originally a hall of justice but used today for
coronation ceremonies.
The largest of the palace buildings is the
Chakri Mahaprasat, the Grand Palace
Hall. Built in 1882 by British architects us-
ing Thai labour, the exterior is a peculiar
blend of Italian Renaissance and traditional
Thai architecture. It’s a style often referred
to as fa·ràng sài chá·dah (Westerner in a
Thai crown) because each wing is topped
by a mon·dòp – a heavily ornamented spire
representing a Thai adaptation of the Hindu
mandapa (shrine). The tallest mon·dòp,
in the centre, contains the ashes of Chakri
kings; the fl anking mon·dòp enshrine the
ashes of Chakri princes. Thai kings housed
their huge harems in the inner palace area,
which was guarded by combat-trained fe-
male sentries.
Last, from east to west, is the Ratanakosin-
style Dusit Hall, which initially served as a
venue for royal audiences and later as a royal
funerary hall.
Guides can be hired at the ticket kiosk;
ignore off ers from anyone outside. An audio
guide can be rented for 200B for two hours.
Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace are
best reached either by a short walk south
from Banglamphu, via Sanam Luang, or by
Chao Phraya Express boat to Tha Chang.
From the Siam Sq area – in front of the MBK
Center (Th Phra Ram I), take bus 47.
Admission for the complex includes en-
trance to Dusit Park (p 89 ), which includes
Vimanmaek Teak Mansion and Abhisek
Dusit Throne Hall.Wat Pho BUDDHIST TEMPLE
(วัดโพธ (์ิวัดพระเชตพนุ ); Wat Phra Chetuphon; Map
p 60 ; Th Sanam Chai; admission 50B; h8am-9pm;
bus 508, 512, river ferry Tha Tien) You’ll fi nd
(slightly) fewer tourists here than at Wat
Phra Kaew, but Wat Pho is our personal
fave among Bangkok’s biggest temples. In
fact, the compound incorporates a host of
superlatives: the largest reclining Buddha,
the largest collection of Buddha images in
Thailand and the country’s earliest centre
for public education.DRESS FOR THE
OCCASIONMost of Bangkok’s biggest tourist at-
tractions are sacred places, and visitors
should dress and behave appropriately.
In particular at Wat Phra Kaew, the
Grand Palace and in Dusit Park, you
won’t be allowed to enter unless you’re
well covered. Shorts, sleeveless shirts
or spaghetti-strap tops, short skirts,
capri pants – basically anything that
reveals more than your arms (certainly
don’t show your shoulders) knees and
head – are not allowed. This applies to
men and women. Violators can expect
to be shown into a dressing room and
loaned a sarong before being allowed
to go in.
For walking in the courtyard areas
you are supposed to wear shoes with
closed heels and toes, although these
rules aren’t as zealously enforced.
Regardless, footwear should always be
removed before entering any main bòht
(chapel) or wí·hăhn (sanctuary). When
sitting in front of a Buddha image, tuck
your feet behind you to avoid the highly
off ensive pose of pointing your feet
towards a revered fi gure.