MALAYSIABook your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels PENINSULAR MALAYSIA – WEST COAST •• Pulau Penang
SD Guesthouse (%264 3743; 15 Love Lane; s/d/t from
RM18/25/35; ai) Creaky floors and cubicle
walls but a social vibe; the ups and downs
must balance out, because SD is very popular
with Georgetown backpackers.
Jim’s Place (%16-653 6963, 261 8731; 431 Lebuh Chulia;
r RM20-30; ai) The handful of fan and air-con
rooms are above a popular travellers’ cafe. It’s
the usual backpacker-basic arrangement, with
shared bathrooms.
Stardust (%263 5723; 370 Lebuh Chulia; s/d from
RM25/35; ai) Despite the name that sounds
like an ABBA album, Stardust is several cuts
above the average Chulia hotel or Love Lane
flophouse. Rooms are spotless and airy.
EATING
Penang cuisine is legendary: Indian, Chinese
and Malay purveyors jostle with one another
for affection from a constantly snacking pop-
ulace. Along with Melaka, Penang boasts the
indigenous fusion of Baba Nonya cuisine (see
p433 ). If you want something Western, the
best choice is Ecco Cafe (%262 3178; 402 Lebuh
Chulia; meals from RM15; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat),
which serves European-style pizza in a cosy,
contemporary space.
Chinese
Lebuh Cintra is lined with bustling Chinese
noodle and dim sum joints.
Jit Seng Duck Rice (%262 2172; 246 Lebuh Carnarvon
(Jln Cheong Fatt Tze); RM3-6; hnoon-3pm) This hawker
stall has a reputation as serving the best
duck rice (seasoned and roasted duck with
a crisp, sweet skin) in town. The roast pork
is great too. Located by the Star Hotel.
Hui Sin Vegetarian Restaurant (11 Lebuh China;
meals RM3-6; hbreakfast & lunch Mon-Sat) Pick from
an excellent buffet of vegie and tofu dishes
at great prices.
Kheng Pin (80 Jln Penang; mains from RM4; h7am-
3pm Tue-Sun) Locals swear by the lorbak (spiced
ground pork wrapped in bean curd dipped
in black gravy) and Hainan chicken rice
served at this stall.
Sky Hotel (%262 2322; 348 Lebuh Chulia; around
RM6; h11.30am-2.30pm) This place lies in the
heart of backpacker central (yet patronised
mostly by locals). Don’t miss trying the pork
dishes and roast duck here. Order your pork
‘pun fei sau’ (half-fat, half-lean) to get that
proper combination of slightly wet and firm
roasted goodness.
oTeik S en^ (Lebuh Carnavon; meals RM8-24;
hlunch & dinner Wed-Mon) Try the crispy chicken
with plum sauce (RM12) or curry prawns
(RM6) and show up early if you don’t want
to wrestle the locals for a table.INFORMATION Blue Diamond Hotel ....................... 14 C2Restoran Kapitan ............................. 28 D3
Immigration Office ............................ 1 E2Jim's Place .......................................... 15 C2Sky Hotel............................................. 29 C2
Tourism Malaysia................................ 2 E2Old Penang Guest House .............. 16 C2Tiek Sen............................................... 30 C2
SD Guesthouse ................................. 17 D2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Stardust ............................................... 18 C2DRINKING?
Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion................ 3 C2 B@92 .................................................... 31 D2
Fort Cornwallis .................................... 4 E2EATING@ Coco's .................................................. 32 C1
Kapitan Keling Mosque .................... 5 D3Ecco Cafe ............................................ 19 C2Glo .......................................................(see 32)
Khoo Kongsi ......................................... 6 D3Esplanade Food Centre.................. 20 D1 Pitt Street Corner ............................. 33 D2
Kuan Yin Teng ..................................... 7 D2Hot Wok .............................................. 21 A2Soho Free House.............................. 34 C2
Penang Heritage Trust...................... 8 E3Hui Sin Vegetarian
Penang Museum ................................ 9 D2 Restaurant....................................... 22 E3TRANSPORT
Pinang Peranakan Mansion .......... 10 E3Jit Seng Duck Rice............................ 23 C3Ferries to Butterworth.................... 35 E4
Sri Mariamman Temple .................. 11 D3Khaleel Restaurant........................... 24 C2Ferries to Pulau Langkawi............. 36 F2
Kheng Pin ........................................... 25 C2Ferry Ticket Offices.......................... 37 E2
SLEEPINGi Madras New Woodlands Kompleks Komtar Bus Stop.......... 38 B3
100 Cintra Street............................... 12 C3 Restaurant....................................... 26 D3 Long-Distance Bus Offices............ 39 B3
Banana Guest House ....................... 13 C2New World Park ................................ 27 A2Pengkalan Weld Bus Stop............. 40 E3WALK ABOUT
The best way to see Penang is on a DIY walk-
ing tour. Head to Penang Heritage Trust
(%264 2631; http://www.pht.org.my; 26 Lebuh Gereja;
h9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-4.30pm Mon-Fri) for
free brochures with details of self-guided
walks, such as the Endangered Trades Walk
and Historic Georgetown Trails. Another
highly recommended walk is Global Ethic
Penang’s World Religions Walk, which takes
you past the iconography and houses of
worship of Christians, Muslims, Hindus,
Sikhs, Buddhists and Confucians and even
to a Jewish cemetery. Details and a map are
available at http://www.globalethicpenang.net/
webpages/act_02b.htm.465