MALAYSIAlonelyplanet.com PENINSULAR MALAYSIA – EAST COAST •• Tasik Chini
Food stalls can be found along the river-
bank across from Hotel Baru Raya, and at the
central market (Jln Bukit Ubi).
Getting There & Away
AIR
Malaysia Airlines (%531 2123; http://www.malaysiaairlines
.com.my) has direct flights to KL (three daily),
and Firefly (%03-7845 4543; http://www.fireflyz.com.my)) also
has two daily flights to/from KL’s Subang
Airport. Kuantan airport (Lapangan Terbang Sultan
Ahmad Shah; %538 2923) is 15km from the city
centre; take a taxi (RM25).
BUS & TAXI
Long-distance buses operate from Terminal
Makmur (Jln Stadium). Services include KL (RM22,
4½ hours, hourly), Mersing (RM14, 3½ hours,
three daily), Kuala Terengganu (RM15, three
hours, frequent), Kota Bharu (RM29, seven
hours, frequent), Jerantut (RM16, 3½ hours,
five daily) and Butterworth (RM48, eight
hours, four daily).
Northbound local buses operate out of a
local bus station (Jln Besar) near the river, includ-
ing services between Cherating (RM4) and
Marang (RM9).
There are two long-distance taxi stands
in town – one on Jln Stadium in front of the
long-distance bus station, and the other on
Jln Mahkota, just near the local bus station.
Destinations and costs (per car) include
Mersing (RM180), Cherating (RM50) and
Jerantut (RM190).
TASIK CHINI
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So hard to get to and yet so worth it, Tasik
Chini (Lake Chini) is a series of 12 lakes linked
by vegetation-clogged channels, its shores in-
habited by the Jakun people, an Orang Asli
tribe of Melayu Asli origin. The surrounding
waves of jungle hills are some of the least vis-
ited trekking areas in the country and still hide
tigers and elephants in its tangle as well as glo-
rious waterfalls and caves. Locals believe the
lake is home to a serpent known as Naga Seri
Gumum, sometimes translated in tourist liter-
ature as a ‘Loch Ness Monster’. The best time
to visit the lakes is from June to September
when the lotuses are in bloom. You can also
visit the lakes as part of a group tour from
Cherating for around RM70 per person.
At Kampung Gumum, Rajan Jones Guest
House (%017 913 5089; r per person incl breakfast & dinner
RM25) offers extremely basic accommodation.
Rajan speaks excellent English, is knowledge-
able about the Orang Asli and can arrange a
spectrum of activities from day treks (RM50
per person) to lake trips (RM50 to RM100
per person).
Buses run to Kampung Chini four times per
day from Kuantan’s local bus station (RM5,
two hours). To get to Kampung Gumum ask
to be let off at the Chini 2 bus stop. From here
you’ll have to ask around for a private car to
take you the remaining 7.5km – this should
cost about RM20. You can also call Rajan
Jones and ask him to help arrange a private
car. A taxi all the way to Kampung Gumum
from Kunatan should cost around RM80.CHERATING
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Back when there were no direct transport links
between Taman Negara and the Perhentian
Islands, Cherating was a major backpacker
stop (breaking up the trip between the two
major destinations). Nowadays only dedi-
cated wanderers, surfers and a few intrepid
backpackers make it out this way but most
who do find that there’s something special
about this place.
The village itself is just a half-dead strip of
guest houses and shops with more monkeys,
monitor lizards and cats walking around than
humans, but between the cracks are a resident
band of hipster Malay surfers, artists and kam-
pung folk who genuinely want to hang out
over a beer and share in the holiday spirit.
Get in with these characters and you’ll un-
derstand why so many people end up staying
here much longer than expected.
There’s an exceptional amount to do in
Cherating. During the monsoon season
(November to March) storms kick up surfable
waves, especially good for beginners. Several
places in town rent out surfboards for around
RM20 per hour and you can get surf lessons
at Satu Saku (Main Rd; hNov-Mar). Balzaction
(h9.30am-11pm), right on the beach, rents out
windsurfing and kitesurfing equipment from
around RM50 per hour and offers classes.
Batik-making is another speciality.
Matahari Chalets ( p478 ) and Limbong Art
(a shop on the Main Rd) both offer courses
(from RM25) where you can make your own
batik handkerchief or sarong.
Myriad adventures are available on the river –
firefly-spotting, kayaking, fishing trips etc.477