MALAYSIABook your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels MALAYSIAN BORNEO – SABAH •• Sandakan
h9am-5pm) was the site of a Japanese POW
camp and starting point for the infamous
Death Marches to Ranau. Of the 1800
Australian and 600 British troops imprisoned
here, the only survivors by July 1945 were
six Australian escapees. To reach the park,
take any Batu 8 or higher bus (RM1.80); get
off at the Taman Rimba signpost and walk
down Jln Rimba.
Sleeping
Over the last two years, the number of hotel
rooms has doubled in Sandakan despite the
decrease in tourists; spontaneous travellers
won’t be too hard-pressed to find an avail-
able room. If you’re only passing through
Sandakan to see the orang-utans, it’s better
to stay at Sepilok itself, since the rehabilita-
tion centre is about 25km from town.
Sunset Harbour Botik Hostel (%089-229875;
http://www.sunsethostels.com; 1E, HS14, Harbour Sq; dm/d incl
breakfast from RM20/60; ai) The dorm rooms
are bit too ‘little orphan Annie’, but there
are excellent kitchen facilities here, and
a large market around the corner to buy
your meal-to-be.
Sandakan Backpackers (%089-221104; www
.sandakanbackpackers.com; Lot 108 Block SH-11, Sandakan
Harbour Sq; dm/s/d RM25/40/60; ai) Cheap
sleeps is the name of the game – the young
backpacker crowd seems to congregate here
(maybe ’cause they’re on a package tour?).
Nak Hotel (%089-272988; http://www.nakhotel.com;
Jln Pelabuhan Lama; dm/r incl breakfast from RM30/88;
ai) If you’re into architectural anoma-
lies (or Soviet-style riffs) then this concrete
behemoth might be the place for you. Picky
travellers fear not – the owners have a real
nak for chic interior decor, outfitting the
oddly shaped rooms with clever design de-
tails. Don’t miss the hotel’s kick-arse roof
lounge ( right ).
Eating & Drinking
The city’s large Chinese population means
that there are excellent homages to the
motherland, and the region’s port history
equals fresher-than-fresh seafood. For an
authentic Malay meal, head to the KFC in
the new development on the sea – but don’t
eat there! The restaurants surrounding it are
cheap and flavourful. If you’re wondering
where everyone goes when Sandakan shuts
down in the evening, just hop in a taxi to
Bandar Indah, commonly known as Mile 4.
This buzzing grid of two-storey shophouses
is the playground of choice for locals and
expats alike. It’s packed with restaurants,
bars, karaoke lounges and nightclubs.
oEnglish Tea House & Restaurant^ (%089-
222544; http://www.englishteahouse.org; 2002 Jln Istana; mains
RM24-40, cocktails RM27; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)
Soak up the recherché colonial atmosphere
and elegant food at this exquisitely restored
restaurant on the grounds of the historic
Agnes Keith House. The manicured gar-
dens are a particular joy, with wicker furni-
ture and a small croquet lawn overlooking
the bay, perfect for afternoon tea (RM17),
a round of sunset Pimms, or perhaps some
snobbish guffawing.
oBalin^ (%089-272988; http://www.nakhotel.com;
Jln Pelabuhan Lama; mains from RM15, drinks from RM7;
hlunch & dinner) Bringing a certain LA rooftop
sexiness to drab Sandakan, Balin is your best
bet for nightlife in the city centre. The three
tiers of uber-chill lounge space are accented
by a factory’s worth of pillows.Getting There & Away
AIR
Malaysia Airlines (%089-273966; http://www.malaysiaairlines
.com) has daily flights to/from KK and KL.
Air Asia (%089-222737; http://www.airasia.com) operates
two daily direct flights to/from KL and KK.
MASwings (%1300 883 000; http://www.maswings.com.my)
offers one daily flight to/from Tawau and
two to/from KK.BUS
Buses from Sandakan to KK, Lahad Datu,
Semporna and Tawau depart from the long-
distance bus station in a large parking lot at
Batu 2.5, 4km north of town – not a par-
ticularly convenient location. Most buses,
and all minivans, leave in the morning. To
reach the bus station, you can catch a local
bus (RM1) from the stand at the waterfront.
A taxi from the station to town will cost you
around RM10.
Bus companies have booths at the station
and touts abound. Most express buses to KK
(RM40, six hours) leave between 7.30am and
2pm, with a couple of evening departures. All
pass the turn-off to Kinabalu National Park
headquarters (RM30).
Buses depart regularly for Lahad Datu
(RM20, 2½ hours) and Tawau (RM30, 5½
hours). There’s also a bus to Semporna
(RM30, 5½ hours) at 8am. If you miss it, head501