214MANDALAY & AROUND
MANDALAY
GREATER MANDALAY
oAyarwaddy River View Hotel HOTEL $$
(Map p 202 ; %72373; ayarwaddyriverviewhotel@
gmail.com; Strand Rd, 22/23; d $30-42, ste $81;
aiW) Brand new in March 2011, this ho-
tel has 56 tasteful and restrained rooms.
They’re partly panelled in wood and all
are sizeable with good, if fashion-neutral,
bathrooms. Price (four categories) depends
on size and view. And what a view! Front-
facing rooms look across the river towards
distant Mingun, rear-upper ones overlook the
city, Mandalay Hill and the Shan uplands. En-
joy the lot, 360 degrees, from the rooftop bar.Rupar Mandalar BOUTIQUE RESORT $$$
(off Map p 202 ; %61555; http://www.ruparmandalarresort.
com; No A-15 53rd St at 30th St; d/ste $200/600;
aiWs) This stunning 16-room complex
set in tropical foliage melds timeless neo-
traditional features with modern design
fl air in indulgent teak rooms. Even the gym
has teak walls. The suites are wonderful for
families, sleeping six in three fully equipped
ensuite sub-bedrooms, which share two ex-
tensive lounges and a kitchenette. The two
swimming pools are inviting, and guests
qualify for a free 15-minute Thai massage
in the spa. The main downside is the odd
location way out on Mandalay’s eastern out-
skirts amid incongruously counterpointed
nouveau riche houses, stagnant ponds and
light industrial wreckage.Hotel Mandalay HOTEL $$
(Map p 202 ; %71582; 78th St, 37/38; d $35-50, ste
$60-120; aWs) A seven-storey business-
style hotel whose well-tended rooms feature
goldfi sh-bowl wash basins and heart-shaped
wall lamps. Perks include indoor swimming
pool, gym, buff et breakfast and free in-room
wi-fi. Next door is City Mart supermarket, and
there’s an array of dining possibilities nearby.Golden Mandalay HOTEL $$
(Map p 200 ; %61488, 09 680 6414; http://home
page.mac.com/hr_weber/golden_mandalay/
index.html; 19th St at Ye Zarni Rd; s/d $17/23;
a) This homely cluster of bungalow-style
rooms is attractively set amid palms, and
there’s a small dining terrace that’s perched
above a canal. Rooms are large, and though
carpets are rough, there’s plenty of char-
acter in the form of bamboo patchwork
designs and pictures. Golden Mandalay is
easy to miss. It's unsigned just east of Po-
lice Station No 1 before 19th St crosses the
canal. Book ahead.Great Wall Hotel HOTEL $$
(Map p 202 ; %68460; No 901 78th St, 42/Theik
Pan; d $40-50; a) A six-fl oor tower whose
fair-value rooms have power showers, partly
wood-panelled walls and plastic covers still
protecting the upholstery. Mostly aimed at
Chinese visitors. The $40 rooms suff er thun-
dering road noise.RIVER BEDSIf you want to sleep on a river boat, there are several upmarket choices.
Amara (www.amaragroup.net/de/river/river-de) Two seven-cabin teak boats, traditionally
styled but recently built, make three-night cruises to Bagan (Amara I s/d/full-charter
€720/980/4480, Amara II €950/1360/6550) and six-night trips between Mandalay and
Bhamo (Amara I €1620/2240/11200, Amara II €2200/2980/14,900).
GMT (%01 392552; http://www.myanmartravelagent.com; 1st fl , 343 Bo Aung Kyaw St, Yangon) Tailor-
made private live-aboard cruises for couples or small groups in relatively simple converted
local boats, with chef and crew. This is great for stopping off at minor riverside villages and
for spotting ultra-rare Irrawaddy dolphins on the Bhamo–Mandalay trip ($1600 per person
for a fi ve-day trip, minimum two passengers). Not usually available Mandalay–Bagan.
Pandaw (www.pandaw1947.com) A 60-year-old riverboat with teak and ironwood fl oors
refi tted into an upmarket 16-berth cruiser.
Road to Mandalay (Map p 200 ; http://www.orient-express.com/web/rtm/road_to_mandalay.jsp)
This 43-berth liner is huge by Ayeyarwady standards and includes an onboard swim-
ming pool and wellness centre. In tourist season it does mostly Bagan–Mandalay, but in
midsummer there are Bhamo trips too. Be aware that its start/end point is at Shwegyet
(Golden Fowl) jetty near Sagaing Bridge, so visiting Mandalay requires a one-hour drive,
and the ‘cruise’ to Mingun is on a diff erent boat – something you could have easily organ-
ised for yourself at a fraction of the cost.