To travel here is to encounter men wear

(coco) #1
216

MANDALAY & AROUND


MANDALAY


K800/1000/3000; h9am-10.30pm; aE) The
most central of Mandalay’s new breed of
air-conditioned Western cafe-bars, V of-
fers wicker-frame sofa seating and semi-
successful attempts at 1970s decor. Food
options include pasta, Mexican stir-fry, fi sh
dishes, tempura, burgers and pizza. When
open, the rooftop bar has views across the
walled fort towards distant Mandalay Hill.

GREATER MANDALAY
Mya Nandar BURMESE, CHINESE $$
(Map p 200 ; %66110; Strand Rd, 26/35; mains
K1600-4000; h9am-11pm; E) The food can
sometimes be a little bland, but the river
views from the back-terrace tables are hard
to beat. You’ll need to book if dining during
the free 7.30pm puppet show (in the bigger
wedding-style main hall).

View Point BAR $
(Map p 202 ; Strand Rd; draught beer K600; h9am-
11pm) The name doesn’t lie. Whether sunset-
watching or spying distant Mingun by day,
the river views to the west are magnifi cent,

while to the south there’s the endlessly fas-
cinating mayhem of loading and unloading
riverboats. From 7pm loud karaoke changes
the atmosphere completely. Open air, very
limited food.

JJ Café 2 BAR $$
(Map p 202 ; 38th St at 78th St; cocktails/draught beer
K2800/1200, meals K3800-5000; h9am-10.30pm;
aE) Boldly modern angular planes coun-
terpoint wicker lounge chairs and traditional
carved fi gurines in this stylish Mandalay re-
treat. The low-lit ground fl oor has live music
from 7pm daily except Saturday. Upstairs is
brighter, calmer and better for conversation.

Uncle Chan’s BEER STATION $
(Map p 202 ; 35th St, 72/73; barbecue items K300-
1800; draught beer K600; h8am-10pm) A cut
above most typical beer-barns and less to-
tally male-dominated, there’s a wide range
of eating possibilities here, but the prime at-
tractions are the polar-cold brews in super-
frosty mugs. Stretching several blocks up
73rd St from here are several equally lively
eating and drinking spots.

DINING DOWNTOWN

In the downtown traveller zone there’s a disappointing lack of inspirational dining. The
following reviews off er a selection of places to fi ll the stomach if you lack the transport to
head further afi eld. But don’t expect anything special. For something more interesting,
get on your bike. And don’t forget a head torch for the journey home!
Nay (Map p 206 ; 27th at 82nd St; h5-11.30pm) and Sri Karaweik (Map p 206 ; 23rd at 81st
St; h5pm-1am) are roadside tables that appear only in the evenings, but keep serving
curry snacks (K250-1000) with fresh chapattis (K150 each) unusually late. Nylon Ice
Cream Bar (Map p 206 ; 83rd St, 25/26; ice cream K500-1500, beer K1700; h8am-10pm) is an-
other ultra-simple pavement-table meeting place, but it opens all day and off ers shakes,
lassis and beer, as well as fully perfumed durian ice cream.
Crusty shop-restaurant Mann (Map p 206 ; 83rd St, 25/26; dishes K1500-2000, rice
K300, beer K1600; h10am-10pm) has concrete fl oors, beer posters and scraggy hunting
trophies, and remains an eternally popular meeting place for foreigners, due more to its
location than its average Chinese fare.
Bakeries Gold Medal (Map p 206 ; 30th St 81/82) and SB (Map p 206 ; 80th St at 31st St)
sell bagged-up super-soft bread and sticky cakes in Japanese style.
Pyi Taw Win (Map p 206 ; 81st St 24/25; BBQ items K200-1800; h8am-10.30pm) is a
standard but central beer station for barbecues, cold draught beer (K600) and Premier
League football (soccer).
There’s a gaggle of Shan restaurants around the 84th/23rd St corner where Kara-
weik (Map p 206 ) teashop (unsigned in English) whips up Shan noodles (K600) and
semi-sweet tandoori-naan bread (K100), which is ideal for tea-dipping. Golden Shan
(Map p 206 ; buff et K3000) has an all-you-can-eat buff et, while Lashio Lay (Map p 206 ; per
plate K500-900, rice K300) off ers a pre-cooked spread.
NVC (Map p 206 ; Nepali Food; 81st St, 26/27; meals K1000-2000; h8am-9pm) serves a
daily changing K2000 pure-veg Nepali thali (multi-curry meal) in a bare concrete box of
a shop. No eggs, no alcohol.
For fresh veg, head to the produce market (Map p 206 ; 86th St, 26/28).
Free download pdf