To travel here is to encounter men wear

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MANDALAY & AROUND


AROUND MANDALAY


moderately alkaline mineral water, found by
faith-led digging in 1998. The water suppos-
edly ‘promotes IQ and ameliorates diabetes,
constipation, gout and morning sickness’. The
only way to try it is to fi rst seek an audience
with the head monk, Bhaddanta Khaymar
Sarya, who may deign to give you a bottle
of it. Before opening the bottle, try holding
it up to the sunlight and play. If you hit on
the right angle, the light projects an image
reminiscent of the monastery stupa onto the

back of the label. ‘Magic’, claim the locals. Or
at least good bottle design.

8 Getting There & Away
Some route 5 Mandalay pick-up trucks come out
as far as Yankin. By bicycle it’s a straightforward
if somewhat traffi c-blighted ride, almost dead
straight along 19th St. By car or motorbike you
can drive to the top of the hill by continuing
around and winding up from the south and east.

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