COSTUME
The Structure of Costume
MUSEUMS ARE AN INFINITELY rich resource for the artist and
designer. They often give quite unexpected gems of ideas and
information—whatever the subject. These drawings, made in a
costume museum, demonstrate ways of recording structural
information and detail for later use in the studio. They could
form the basis of new designs for a fashion project or theater
production, for example. Drawings of shoes on pp. 164-65
show how new designs can be evolved from the structural
information given by a period style. Arrange to visit a costume
museum or ask a friend to model clothes for you at home.
Using fine felt-tip pens, begin with quick, pale impressions
of each garment's shape before homing in on its borders and
seams. Try to draw transparent views wherever possible to
record the relationships between all component parts. Aim to
draw enough information for it to be possible to make up a
version of the garment using paper pinned to a tailor's dummy.
OBSERVATION
It is usually best when collecting information for reference to apply the restraint of
dispassionate observation. Set yourself the test of drawing facts with as little artistic
license or embellishment as possible. Here I chose fine felt-tip pens because they are
at their best when used swiftly, and therefore encourage bold, unhesitant decisions.Swift lines record the
hanging weight of this
gentleman's coat, the
relative proportions of its
layers, and minimal details
of the buttons and cuffs.Thick velvet fabric is pulled
tight beneath and across the
bust by a single button. This
transparent view shows
how the fabric falls loosely
in straight panels beneath
the level of the sleeve.